Amazing Amalfi
"I know. I know I won't have your complete attention," said Stefano, our tour guide, as our bus deftly evaded 3 scooters squeezing between us and an oncoming bus. And then we dove into traffic so thick and roads so windy and steep they defy description. Of course, that's not going to stop me. They actually have traffic wardens along some of the curvier sections of road who radio several curves ahead and then have buses here, or there, stop and wait so that we don't encounter each other in a tight corner. That worked fine. However, on more than several occasions cars had to back up to give way to us. And on the other side? nothing. The cliffs plunging into the Mediterranean are so steep that in some cases they are negative: not straight down, but slope backwards towards the road. And the road itself? As we rounded curver after curve and looked back we could see it hanging over the edge! It is jaw droppingly spectacular. And in the distance, the deep blue sea flows over the rim of the horizon.
Oh. It's known locally as the Mama Mia Road, this drive along the Amalfi coast.
Italian bus drivers are experts on this road and show no compunction in doling out loud and enthusiastic advice to foreign drivers.
In Amalfi we stopped and walked around, eschewing a look into yet another cathedral for the more touristy passtime of sitting and having an ice cream. We chose our selections carefully from the luscious display and people watched as we indulged. Our table mates, Betty and Ian walked by and sat with us momentarily as we caught up on our day then headed off. Hans went inside to pay. "Fourteen Euros" said the owner, deadpan. "What?" I exclaimed. "14 Euros for 2 ice creams?" He shrugged Gallically even though he was Italian, and we just paid. Yikes $20 bucks for ice cream. We even have a picture of it!
That's nearly as shocking as 13 Euros for a beer in San Marco Square in Venice, except there we had been warned and had our beer a little cheaper for only 4 Euros down a side street.
Stefano was very informative on many subjects, including the groves of olive trees we passed. "Olives have four major pressings," he instructed. "The first of course is the very desirable Extra Virgin, then Virgin, then ordinary olive oil. And lastly, motor oil."
Oh. It's known locally as the Mama Mia Road, this drive along the Amalfi coast.
Italian bus drivers are experts on this road and show no compunction in doling out loud and enthusiastic advice to foreign drivers.
In Amalfi we stopped and walked around, eschewing a look into yet another cathedral for the more touristy passtime of sitting and having an ice cream. We chose our selections carefully from the luscious display and people watched as we indulged. Our table mates, Betty and Ian walked by and sat with us momentarily as we caught up on our day then headed off. Hans went inside to pay. "Fourteen Euros" said the owner, deadpan. "What?" I exclaimed. "14 Euros for 2 ice creams?" He shrugged Gallically even though he was Italian, and we just paid. Yikes $20 bucks for ice cream. We even have a picture of it!
That's nearly as shocking as 13 Euros for a beer in San Marco Square in Venice, except there we had been warned and had our beer a little cheaper for only 4 Euros down a side street.
Stefano was very informative on many subjects, including the groves of olive trees we passed. "Olives have four major pressings," he instructed. "The first of course is the very desirable Extra Virgin, then Virgin, then ordinary olive oil. And lastly, motor oil."
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