Darkness in Hanoi
The darkness comes alive. Everywhere there is movement. I try to see everything, peering intently into corners where shadows dance against the walls but I see nothing scary. The only sound I hear is the constant honk-honk-honk of the scooters as they thread their way through the pedestrian throng.
At night, the white faces come out. It's that convivial time of day where your thoughts turn to the prospect of food and drink and the tables fill up mostly with Caucasians. We eat in an unbelievably small cafe scross the narrow street from our hotel which only has outdoor tables. That's fine, because the night has stripped the heat from the day, though not the humidity. My skin is already clammy and welcomes the breeze.
The waitress recognizes Hans who was there earlier having a beer while I napped. In abbreviated English he tries to explain he wants to eat the same thing as the English teacher who sat with him that afternoon. Eventually she understands him and delightedly points to the item on the menu - a 'steak' dish that consists of thinly sliced beef and onions sizzling on a cast iron pan. Dinner was delicious and Thursdays they serve a free dessert: a few small pieces of fresh fruit topped with yogurt and served in...an egg cup.
There are many little shops, most no wider than six feet and many not much deeper. Our guide told us earlier that real estate here in the Old Quarter runs US $50,000 per square meter. In a silk shop, I watch as a Western bride buys yards and yards of white on white silk for her gown. The clerk is measuring it with a wooden ruler. I look around, but the colour I'm seeking isn't available here. No matter, this is just our first day of looking and there will be endless silks in Bangkok from which to choose.
On our way back to the hotel, we marvel at how the night hides and reveals. It hides dirt and softens the look of streets and buildings. At the same time, laterns spring up and on a third storey open balcony, another restaurant is revealed which was invisible during the day. Maybe we'll get to try it out tonight.
At night, the white faces come out. It's that convivial time of day where your thoughts turn to the prospect of food and drink and the tables fill up mostly with Caucasians. We eat in an unbelievably small cafe scross the narrow street from our hotel which only has outdoor tables. That's fine, because the night has stripped the heat from the day, though not the humidity. My skin is already clammy and welcomes the breeze.
The waitress recognizes Hans who was there earlier having a beer while I napped. In abbreviated English he tries to explain he wants to eat the same thing as the English teacher who sat with him that afternoon. Eventually she understands him and delightedly points to the item on the menu - a 'steak' dish that consists of thinly sliced beef and onions sizzling on a cast iron pan. Dinner was delicious and Thursdays they serve a free dessert: a few small pieces of fresh fruit topped with yogurt and served in...an egg cup.
There are many little shops, most no wider than six feet and many not much deeper. Our guide told us earlier that real estate here in the Old Quarter runs US $50,000 per square meter. In a silk shop, I watch as a Western bride buys yards and yards of white on white silk for her gown. The clerk is measuring it with a wooden ruler. I look around, but the colour I'm seeking isn't available here. No matter, this is just our first day of looking and there will be endless silks in Bangkok from which to choose.
On our way back to the hotel, we marvel at how the night hides and reveals. It hides dirt and softens the look of streets and buildings. At the same time, laterns spring up and on a third storey open balcony, another restaurant is revealed which was invisible during the day. Maybe we'll get to try it out tonight.
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