The 'Denkmal' in Kiel

If you've ever visited a war memorial you'll know the atmosphere is heavy with the echo of long dead voices. The 'Denkmal' (literally 'think about it') for the fallen U-boat seamen of the First and Second World Wars was such a place. On the sea side, the memorial grounds are shaped like the curve of an anchor. You walk up the centre of the anchor, turn right and follow path that takes you down 10' into a remembrance room where there is a small collection of wreaths honouring the dead.

As you step outside, you follow a semi-circular path. The wall on your left is lined in bronze and list the U-boats and names of those lost on them during WWI. On the right is the same for WWII. We followed the path to U-boat 307, Hans's dad's submarine. He should have been on it when it went down but through one of those quirky twists of fate, he was sent to finish some schooling on that fateful trip. On such tenuous threads lives are forged for without it, Hans wouldn't be here nor would I be writing this today.

The most touching moment of the day for me came when a German naval ship steamed past the memorial. We were on the grounds when a whistle blew, drawing our attention. All the seamen were lined up facing the memorial and saluting. Later I read that passing submarines also dip their flag. Maybe this naval vessel did the same but I didn't see it. My eyes were too blurry.

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