Final notes
Peregrinos
When I planned this trip I knew that there would be a lot less peregrinos as compared to last year. Statistically only about five percent of the Compostelas are issued to those doing the Via de la Plata. Over the whole 5 week period of the walk I saw no more than 20 pilgrims. Over the last 500 kilometers I saw only three walkers. Julia, a young lady (mid thirties) from Germany, whom I saw for two days until she took the northern route to Astorga and I headed over the mountains to Ourense. Federico, a Spanish gentleman (mid fifties) who was walking an astounding 40 kilometers per day but taking about 12 hours to do so. He arrived in Santiago two days ago and started in Sevilla four days after me. Thus he was taking only 29 days to walk the 1007 kilometers. Bart (mid forties) from Belgium, who was at the albergue in Ourense when I arrived and was still there when I left. He was straying there until he recovered from flu symptoms......he said! In my view he was taking advantage of a very nice heated albergue with free internet service at three euros per day. He told me that he was on a one year sabbatical, that he was going to quit his job at the end of the sabbatical, did not want to work anymore, and just wanted to do volunteer work although he did not seem to have a profession to support it....nice work if you can get it and still live.
Monastery at Oseira
The only place to stay in the village of Oseira is the monastery. It is a set of huge structures where the oldest building goes back to the 12th century. I was met by Brother Luis who spoke reasonably good English. Because it was late in the season they had closed down the section where peregrinos got individuals cells (rooms) with hot showers and a hot meal as part of the stay. So, he took me to this huge building that had about 20 beds at one end. This was to be my home for the night. No showers, no hot water, no pillows, and no heat but I could get a meal at the bar in the village. Later I went up to the main entrance to make my donation. He insisted on taking me on a 30 minute tour of the immense complex which was absolutely fascinating.....by the way, there are only 17 monks in a place that used to hold hundreds.
When I planned this trip I knew that there would be a lot less peregrinos as compared to last year. Statistically only about five percent of the Compostelas are issued to those doing the Via de la Plata. Over the whole 5 week period of the walk I saw no more than 20 pilgrims. Over the last 500 kilometers I saw only three walkers. Julia, a young lady (mid thirties) from Germany, whom I saw for two days until she took the northern route to Astorga and I headed over the mountains to Ourense. Federico, a Spanish gentleman (mid fifties) who was walking an astounding 40 kilometers per day but taking about 12 hours to do so. He arrived in Santiago two days ago and started in Sevilla four days after me. Thus he was taking only 29 days to walk the 1007 kilometers. Bart (mid forties) from Belgium, who was at the albergue in Ourense when I arrived and was still there when I left. He was straying there until he recovered from flu symptoms......he said! In my view he was taking advantage of a very nice heated albergue with free internet service at three euros per day. He told me that he was on a one year sabbatical, that he was going to quit his job at the end of the sabbatical, did not want to work anymore, and just wanted to do volunteer work although he did not seem to have a profession to support it....nice work if you can get it and still live.
Monastery at Oseira
The only place to stay in the village of Oseira is the monastery. It is a set of huge structures where the oldest building goes back to the 12th century. I was met by Brother Luis who spoke reasonably good English. Because it was late in the season they had closed down the section where peregrinos got individuals cells (rooms) with hot showers and a hot meal as part of the stay. So, he took me to this huge building that had about 20 beds at one end. This was to be my home for the night. No showers, no hot water, no pillows, and no heat but I could get a meal at the bar in the village. Later I went up to the main entrance to make my donation. He insisted on taking me on a 30 minute tour of the immense complex which was absolutely fascinating.....by the way, there are only 17 monks in a place that used to hold hundreds.
Comments
Enjoy the rest days, the accolades and the wine. TTYL
Vern