Ourense, Spain on November 4
It’s about 1430 on Tuesday, November 4.
I am in Ourense where for the second day in a row I am drying out, not from too much wine, but from hours of rain. I have had precipitation in some form for each of the last four days but the last two have been the worst. But, a bit of hardship builds character. I tried to find a tuque and sweater for the cold weather but it’s almost impossible to find those things in the little villages in Spain. I swore that I wasn’t going to get a ride after the 50 km bus ride to Salamanca in the pouring rain, and I haven’t. Now that I have a cover for the backpack and can wear the poncho underneath the backpack it helps. Of course I scare small children when I walk into these villages.
Yesterday, it started to rain as I was starting up the last of the passes on the trip and of course I got wet both inside my poncho (from the sweat) and those parts of me that were exposed. The worst part is walking in wet shoes and socks for hours on end. This morning I stuck plastic shopping bags over my socks and that really helped as I stayed relatively dry although the rain was pounding for the full 4 1/2 hours of today’s short walk of 22 km. There is another use for plastic bags!
So with today’s walk finished, I have completed 896 km with 111 km left to go. (1,087,000 steps).
I have received the OK to stay at the albuergue, which is gorgeous, for a second night. I just have to vacate in the morning and then show up again at 13:00 but I can leave my backpack here. This means that I should arrive in Santiago de Compostela on Sunday afternoon, November 9, one day ahead of my original plan.
I will probably get a hotel for one night in Santiago de Compostela.
Right now the schedule looks as follows:
Ourense: Nov 4 to 6 at the albergue
Walk to Santiago over 4 days arriving on Nov 9
Santiago Albergue: Nov 9-10
Santiago: Attend Rotary meeting Nov 10
Santiago: Nov 10-12 Accommodation TBD
Train/Bus to Madrid Nov 12
Madrid: Hostel Nov 12- 14
Fly to London: Nov 14
Fly to Canada: Nov 15
Goethe
Photo of Goethe taken in Vienna during our September trip.
There is a quote written on a piece of cloth attached to the inside of my Tilley vest by Goethe that says, "Be bold - and mighty forces will come to your aid". Seems very appropriate.
The Bells at Casar de Caseres
The albergue in Casar de Caceres, is located right across the road from the ayuntamiento (city hall) in which there is a bell tower that does its thing every hour on the hour to announce the time. The only problem is that, for example at 21:00 the bell chimes nine times and then after a three or four minute pause it chimes nine more times. All of us in the albergue were more than pleased when the bells did not chime between the hours of 10PM and 7AM!
Bumwad
You can never count on the availability of toilet paper anywhere in Spain. Frequently even the albergues don’t have any. Thus, the well-equipped peregrino always carries a supply in the backpack. Nature called as I was walking along one day and I took out my sealed freezer bag with the soft paper in it. Unfortunately, I had left the lid on my spare drinking bottle unsealed and the water had leaked into the bag with the toilet paper . All I had was a sodden mass. Sort of like papier mache. But, I had no choice but to use it. Sort of a flush and a wipe all in one!
Hope
Over the last few days I have traversed several passes with long and sometimes steep climbs. You anticipate finally coming to the top when there is a bit of a down hill. But, it is there only to give you hope. As if to taunt you, it is soon followed by yet another climb even steeper than the last. This seems to work the best when it is foggy and you can’t see very far ahead.
I am in Ourense where for the second day in a row I am drying out, not from too much wine, but from hours of rain. I have had precipitation in some form for each of the last four days but the last two have been the worst. But, a bit of hardship builds character. I tried to find a tuque and sweater for the cold weather but it’s almost impossible to find those things in the little villages in Spain. I swore that I wasn’t going to get a ride after the 50 km bus ride to Salamanca in the pouring rain, and I haven’t. Now that I have a cover for the backpack and can wear the poncho underneath the backpack it helps. Of course I scare small children when I walk into these villages.
Yesterday, it started to rain as I was starting up the last of the passes on the trip and of course I got wet both inside my poncho (from the sweat) and those parts of me that were exposed. The worst part is walking in wet shoes and socks for hours on end. This morning I stuck plastic shopping bags over my socks and that really helped as I stayed relatively dry although the rain was pounding for the full 4 1/2 hours of today’s short walk of 22 km. There is another use for plastic bags!
So with today’s walk finished, I have completed 896 km with 111 km left to go. (1,087,000 steps).
I have received the OK to stay at the albuergue, which is gorgeous, for a second night. I just have to vacate in the morning and then show up again at 13:00 but I can leave my backpack here. This means that I should arrive in Santiago de Compostela on Sunday afternoon, November 9, one day ahead of my original plan.
I will probably get a hotel for one night in Santiago de Compostela.
Right now the schedule looks as follows:
Ourense: Nov 4 to 6 at the albergue
Walk to Santiago over 4 days arriving on Nov 9
Santiago Albergue: Nov 9-10
Santiago: Attend Rotary meeting Nov 10
Santiago: Nov 10-12 Accommodation TBD
Train/Bus to Madrid Nov 12
Madrid: Hostel Nov 12- 14
Fly to London: Nov 14
Fly to Canada: Nov 15
Goethe
Photo of Goethe taken in Vienna during our September trip.
There is a quote written on a piece of cloth attached to the inside of my Tilley vest by Goethe that says, "Be bold - and mighty forces will come to your aid". Seems very appropriate.
The Bells at Casar de Caseres
The albergue in Casar de Caceres, is located right across the road from the ayuntamiento (city hall) in which there is a bell tower that does its thing every hour on the hour to announce the time. The only problem is that, for example at 21:00 the bell chimes nine times and then after a three or four minute pause it chimes nine more times. All of us in the albergue were more than pleased when the bells did not chime between the hours of 10PM and 7AM!
Bumwad
You can never count on the availability of toilet paper anywhere in Spain. Frequently even the albergues don’t have any. Thus, the well-equipped peregrino always carries a supply in the backpack. Nature called as I was walking along one day and I took out my sealed freezer bag with the soft paper in it. Unfortunately, I had left the lid on my spare drinking bottle unsealed and the water had leaked into the bag with the toilet paper . All I had was a sodden mass. Sort of like papier mache. But, I had no choice but to use it. Sort of a flush and a wipe all in one!
Hope
Over the last few days I have traversed several passes with long and sometimes steep climbs. You anticipate finally coming to the top when there is a bit of a down hill. But, it is there only to give you hope. As if to taunt you, it is soon followed by yet another climb even steeper than the last. This seems to work the best when it is foggy and you can’t see very far ahead.
Comments
Sounds like you're having lots of fun!!. Congrats on conquering the elements and worst of all.... the sodden toilet paper. On top of all the challenges from Mother Nature there's the challenge from the bottom up. However, think positive thoughts, it builds character.
Take care, enjoy the end of the trip. Will chat with you on your return (and after your recuperation).
Take Care and have fun
Vern