Kia Ora
If you should ask me what is the greatest thing in the world, the answer would be: It is people, it is people, it is people.
Friday evening we toured Tamaki Maori Village, which is the South Pacific's gateway to the world of ancient Maori warriors. We were taken on a journey back in time to a pre-European lifestyle experience of customs and traditions while ambling down the pathways of a rediscovered village as it came alive to the sound and activities of tribal songs, dances, myths, legends and spiritual stories.
First, the bus picked us up at the Best Western, and after the rest of the gang was picked up, we were taken to their head office to pay. Not a problem. It was worth every $.
On the bus ride to the Maori village we were given a sheet breaking down the evening's events, as well as a lesson in protocol. Much of the ceremony is sacred and they wanted to ensure our cooperation in maintaining appropriate decorum. Again, not a problem. Out of respect for their culture, they asked us not to laugh or poke fun at their ceremony. I found the ceremony moving. It choked me up and even now as I write, I find tears welling in my eyes. There is no way would it have occurred to me to mock them.
As we approached the "Marae", a welcoming place, we were reminded to remain motionless and respectful. Our bus driver had selected a man from the UK to be our "chief", and he was instructed to wait at the marae until approached by a warrior from the welcoming tribe. We were not allowed to enter the tribal village until the formal welcome had been performed. The welcoming warrior (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron) went through his routine, which included intimidating getures and displays. When our *chief* didn't back down, a peace offering of a fern was placed before him on the ground. When he accepted this offering, we were permitted to enter the village behind him and the welcoming warrior.
We entered a cedar forest where there were many huts behind blazing fires keeping out the chill of the evening. At each hut a particular activity was being demonstrated: poi twirling (leather-like balls at the end of long strings - very complicated) hand games (like rock, paper scissors, to strengthen wrists and sharpen reflexes for battle), weaponry displays (mock fighting with spears and sticks to hone speed and strengthen the forearms), and songs. All activities come from an era gone by and have been restored by the young Maori people of today.
From the village we entered the meeting house, described in an earlier post from the museum in Auckalnd. The building represents an ancestor from their past: the central roof beam being the spine, and the perpendicular braces supporting the roof are the ribs of the ancestor. In past times, women were not permitted to be seated in the front row. This was beause if fighting were to occur between the home people and the visitors, the men would be the protectors (just as we would like them to be). After the welcoming speeches, the visiting "chief" and the welcomign chief touch noses 2 times and mingle their breaths (hmmm), which seals the bond of friendship between the different cultures.
Then came the entertainment, which was amazing.
There were songs - beautifully harmonized by the men and women - and dances, all of which tell the stories of a proud race. I loved it when the men danced and later performed the Haka. It's supposed to intimidate the opposing tribe but I found it sensual and soul stirring. If the opposing tribe were gay, they would have fallen happily into the arms of the warriors!!
Now it was time for dinner - the traditional Hangi, whih has been under the earth on hot rocks for three to four hours ( and if the food isn't completey cooked, you can nuke it for 2 minutes in the mike, says our guide). This is the age old traditional cooking method of the Maori. The rocks are heated to a white hot state with some native hard timber. They are then put into a 1 metre deep by 1 metre wide pit dug in the earth. Baskets of meat are put directly on the hot hstones, then the vegetable baskets and then the pudding (like flat chocolate cake) basket on top of that. A wet cloth is placed over the food followed by wet hessian. Earth is then piled quickly over everything to keep the heat inside the earth oven.
A senior Maori woman blessed the food with a "Karakia" (prayer) in Maori.
The food consisted of fish, chicken and lamb, all succulently cooked in the earthen oven. Kumara (sweet potato), carrots and potato were the vegetables. The pudding was accompanied by a custard sauce and there was also a crisply cool fruit salad. Wines were available, which meant this was not really a sacred eating place as the ancient Maoris did not favour alcohol.
At the end of the evening, the closing ceremony consisted of the Maoris and serving staff singing a beautifully harmonious song accompanied by graceful hand and arm movements. I don't know what the fluttering hands mean, but it was lovely to see. Then we were invited to sing along in English to "Now is the hour, when we must say goodbye". Luckily, I get choked up at these songs and so spared the rest of the group my off-key and croaky voice, but I enjoyed it tremendously.
The men performed a final Haka to send us on our way.
In the bus on the way home, our driver, a superb singer, led us in songs representing our various countries: Take me out to the ball game; Rule Brittania; some Welsh song; When Irish Eyes are Smiling; and more that I can't remember. I was racking my brain for something Canadian, but couldn't think of anything and luckily, he didn't ask. So when I come back to New Zealand, what Canadian song can I offer?
This was by far the best evening. I know it's a show put on for us tourists but still, it was so moving and touched all the senses - and some I didn't know I had.
Friday evening we toured Tamaki Maori Village, which is the South Pacific's gateway to the world of ancient Maori warriors. We were taken on a journey back in time to a pre-European lifestyle experience of customs and traditions while ambling down the pathways of a rediscovered village as it came alive to the sound and activities of tribal songs, dances, myths, legends and spiritual stories.
First, the bus picked us up at the Best Western, and after the rest of the gang was picked up, we were taken to their head office to pay. Not a problem. It was worth every $.
On the bus ride to the Maori village we were given a sheet breaking down the evening's events, as well as a lesson in protocol. Much of the ceremony is sacred and they wanted to ensure our cooperation in maintaining appropriate decorum. Again, not a problem. Out of respect for their culture, they asked us not to laugh or poke fun at their ceremony. I found the ceremony moving. It choked me up and even now as I write, I find tears welling in my eyes. There is no way would it have occurred to me to mock them.
As we approached the "Marae", a welcoming place, we were reminded to remain motionless and respectful. Our bus driver had selected a man from the UK to be our "chief", and he was instructed to wait at the marae until approached by a warrior from the welcoming tribe. We were not allowed to enter the tribal village until the formal welcome had been performed. The welcoming warrior (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron) went through his routine, which included intimidating getures and displays. When our *chief* didn't back down, a peace offering of a fern was placed before him on the ground. When he accepted this offering, we were permitted to enter the village behind him and the welcoming warrior.
We entered a cedar forest where there were many huts behind blazing fires keeping out the chill of the evening. At each hut a particular activity was being demonstrated: poi twirling (leather-like balls at the end of long strings - very complicated) hand games (like rock, paper scissors, to strengthen wrists and sharpen reflexes for battle), weaponry displays (mock fighting with spears and sticks to hone speed and strengthen the forearms), and songs. All activities come from an era gone by and have been restored by the young Maori people of today.
From the village we entered the meeting house, described in an earlier post from the museum in Auckalnd. The building represents an ancestor from their past: the central roof beam being the spine, and the perpendicular braces supporting the roof are the ribs of the ancestor. In past times, women were not permitted to be seated in the front row. This was beause if fighting were to occur between the home people and the visitors, the men would be the protectors (just as we would like them to be). After the welcoming speeches, the visiting "chief" and the welcomign chief touch noses 2 times and mingle their breaths (hmmm), which seals the bond of friendship between the different cultures.
Then came the entertainment, which was amazing.
There were songs - beautifully harmonized by the men and women - and dances, all of which tell the stories of a proud race. I loved it when the men danced and later performed the Haka. It's supposed to intimidate the opposing tribe but I found it sensual and soul stirring. If the opposing tribe were gay, they would have fallen happily into the arms of the warriors!!
Now it was time for dinner - the traditional Hangi, whih has been under the earth on hot rocks for three to four hours ( and if the food isn't completey cooked, you can nuke it for 2 minutes in the mike, says our guide). This is the age old traditional cooking method of the Maori. The rocks are heated to a white hot state with some native hard timber. They are then put into a 1 metre deep by 1 metre wide pit dug in the earth. Baskets of meat are put directly on the hot hstones, then the vegetable baskets and then the pudding (like flat chocolate cake) basket on top of that. A wet cloth is placed over the food followed by wet hessian. Earth is then piled quickly over everything to keep the heat inside the earth oven.
A senior Maori woman blessed the food with a "Karakia" (prayer) in Maori.
The food consisted of fish, chicken and lamb, all succulently cooked in the earthen oven. Kumara (sweet potato), carrots and potato were the vegetables. The pudding was accompanied by a custard sauce and there was also a crisply cool fruit salad. Wines were available, which meant this was not really a sacred eating place as the ancient Maoris did not favour alcohol.
At the end of the evening, the closing ceremony consisted of the Maoris and serving staff singing a beautifully harmonious song accompanied by graceful hand and arm movements. I don't know what the fluttering hands mean, but it was lovely to see. Then we were invited to sing along in English to "Now is the hour, when we must say goodbye". Luckily, I get choked up at these songs and so spared the rest of the group my off-key and croaky voice, but I enjoyed it tremendously.
The men performed a final Haka to send us on our way.
In the bus on the way home, our driver, a superb singer, led us in songs representing our various countries: Take me out to the ball game; Rule Brittania; some Welsh song; When Irish Eyes are Smiling; and more that I can't remember. I was racking my brain for something Canadian, but couldn't think of anything and luckily, he didn't ask. So when I come back to New Zealand, what Canadian song can I offer?
This was by far the best evening. I know it's a show put on for us tourists but still, it was so moving and touched all the senses - and some I didn't know I had.
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