Day 10, September 3: Belorado to Atapuerca (30 km; 7:00)

The party in the streets was still in full swing when we left the albergue. Once again it was cool and cloudy which made for comfortable walking.

Between Villafranca Montes de Oca and San Juan de Ortega, there was a long stretch through a pine forest with spectacular stretches of pink and purple heather. It was a visual delight.

Photo 387: Field of heather.

Photo 389: The seemingly endless rocky trail.

At one of the small towns a van selling fresh bread pulled up. This is a common way for those living in small hamlets and villages to get staples and groceries. Bread, fish, meat and vegetables can be purchased from these “mobile stores”. I bought a loaf of bread that was at least two feet long and when Janos and Krisztina joined me a bit later, we ate the whole thing!

Atapuerca was a minor stop along the Camino until the 800,000 year old bones belonging to a new human species, “homo antecessor”, were discovered in the nearby hills in the 1970s.

Photo 398: Nearing Atapuerca.

Although the museum was very educational, I was more interested in finding a restaurant where we could celebrate Lo’s birthday. We lucked out! The only restaurant of quality served a superb four-course dinner with wine for 12 euros each. The more expensive than usual fee was no doubt because the restaurant was mentioned in the Michelin guide. There were many toasts to Lo!

Photo 405: Any excuse for a party! This time, toasting Lo in absentia.

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