Day 29, September 22: Negreira to Olveiroa (33 km; 7:10)

We were anxious to leave as early as possible in the morning since there was only one albergue with 35 beds in Olveiroa. If it were full, it was another 20 kilometres to the next albergue.

Photo 849: On the trail to Olveiroa.

There was heavy fog with the threat of rain. It started to drizzle at mid-morning and I broke out the poncho for only the third time. It began to clear towards noon and by the time we got to Olveiroa, the sun was shining. There were about twenty peregrinos waiting for the albergue to open and by the time the hopitalera arrived at 3:30 the number had grown to about 30. There was no overflow capacity like Negreira, and a number of late-arriving peregrinos had no choice but to keep walking.

The albergue was in several beautifully restored stone buildings. Unfortunately farm animals were housed right next door with the usual odour and hordes of flies for us to combat. Great accommodations, but literally crappy neighbours!

The tiny hamlet had two bars but one was closed for a family affair. The remaining bar was overwhelmed and we had to wait almost two hours to get something to eat.

In this part of Spain, because of the high humidity which would rot wood, and the abundance of rock, the horreos are entirely made of stone. This was an excellent example.

Photo 848: A stunning all-stone horreo.

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