Day 19, September 12: Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca (27 km; 6:15)

The original plan was to walk to Pontferrada (35 kilometres), but the problem with my leg combined with the long uphill to Manjarin, near the highest point on the Camino (1517 meters), and the long, steep, and frankly dangerous descent into the El Bierzo Valley, forced us to abort the plan and stop in Molinaseca.

The two and a half hour climb to Cruz de Ferro was steady but not too difficult. It was an emotional moment when I added, as tradition dictates, the small stone I had brought from Canada, to the pile surrounding the cross.

Photo 591: Cruz de Ferro.

Photo 593: My stone is somewhere up there.

The 15 kilometre, four-and-a-half hour descent to Molinaseca via El Acebo was steep and difficult. I could not imagine doing the descent if it were raining. I was very careful and took my time. A few days later, we heard about a peregrino who had fallen and broken a leg during the descent.

Photo 605: The descent to El Acebo

Photo 607: A rough and crumbly road. Molinaseca is way down there.

I didn’t stop to admire the stately homes and ancient bridges in Molinaseca since I was very anxious to get to the albergue, which was about one kilometre past the town. I chose the very modern and comfortable Albergue de Santa Marina.

Photo 610: An almost new, private albergue. Main entrance and dining on man floor, bedrooms on two top floors. Washing facilities and washroom/showers in walk-out basement.

The profusion of staffs and boots at the entrance to the albergue was typical.

Photo 612: A motley collection of staffs used by the peregrinos.

Photo 613: The foyer in the albergue where we left our outdoor shoes. The photo doesn't show it, but the air was pungent with the odour of feet that had walked many miles.

I was relieved that the albergue offered a communal dinner since I was in no shape to walk back to Molinaseca. There were about 20 of us at the dinner table including Liz. She had taken over 10 hours to walk the 27 km to Molinaseca. Her feet were in terrible shape and looked like pincushions from all the threads draining her many blisters.

We were served a really good lentil soup, a mixed salad with tuna, spaghetti, and fruit for dessert.

Photo 614: The owners of the aforementioned shoes and staffs looking tired by happy.

Later, the kindly hospitalero provided me with some ice packs that helped to reduce the swelling of my leg.

It would be interesting to see what the morning would bring.

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