Day 14, September 7: Poblacion de Campos to Ledigos (38 km; 7:05)

Taking the scenic, tree-lined path along the Rio Ucieza rather than the gravel path along the highway added about two kilometres to what was going to be the longest day of walking to date. I didn’t see another person until rejoining the main trail about two hours later. The sun coming up behind me and the sounds of the birds and the river flowing beside me made it a glorious walk.

From Carrion, an impressive medieval city, there was an almost endlessly straight and treeless stone path (17 kilometres) until I reached the tiny, one-street village of Calzadilla de la Cueza, tucked into a depression in the Meseta.

Photo 490: The entire village of Calzadilla de la Cueza.

The only exception to the featureless landscape was a mobile bar an entrepreneur had set up near the halfway point. I gladly paid his inflated price for a beer and a cola.

Photo 488: Strange location, but very welcome little bar in the middle of nowhere.

In the heat, the six kilometres to Ledigos seemed to take hours; however, after a rest, a shower, and some cold drinks with Ian from Middleborough, England, all was well. This marked the halfway point to Santiago.

Photo 491: Seven peregrinos from six countries resting their weary feet in Ledigos. The air was heavy with the smell of ripe cheese.

Photo 493: Ian from Middleborough.

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