Day 20, September 13: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo (29 km; 7:30)
The situation seemed bleak when I woke up and was unable to put any weight on my left foot without significant pain. I slowly got dressed and, with difficulty, made my way down to the main floor. I took stock and saw my options as follows.
1. Stay in Molinaseca for a couple of days to rest my leg (which by this time was badly swollen).
2. Take a bus to Sarria, where I could rest for a few days and then hobble the last 115 kilometres to Santiago This would also avoid the climb up to and over O Cebreiro which is reputed to be the most difficult climb on the Camino.
3. Walk the mostly flat terrain to the city of Ponferrada (named after the 11th century iron bridge built for pilgrims to cross the Rio Sil), where I could reassess the situation, including the possibility of getting medical attention.
At 6:30 am I left the albergue, walking slowly with a pronounced limp. Surprisingly, the pain lessened as I walked on and by the time I got to Ponferrada, I felt good enough to carry on since this was mostly a flat walking day. I walked by the imposing Templar Castle, but this was not a day for sight-seeing.
Photo 617: Ponferra Templar Castle.
Later that day I met a Spaniard who, having noticing my limp, provided me with a topical anti-inflammatory called Voltaren – it helped and I bought some at the first open pharmacy, which was in Camponaraya. Later, I met a young lady from Shawinigan, Quebec who had just graduated from medical school at McGill. She had a look at my leg and confirmed that it was tendonitis.
The last six kilometres from Cacabelos to Villafranca del Bierzo were tough as it was mostly uphill and very hot. I know I could not have gone further that day and was frankly surprised at what I had accomplished, given the situation at the start of the day. I know that there were friends and family back home supporting and praying for me. Perhaps there had been divine intervention.
Later, Markus and I met at the municipal albergue and then walked to the central square where we met Isabel, from Germany. The menu del dia (menu of the day), included smoked ham, ribs with fries (both local delicacies), and ice cream for dessert. Despite my hunger I was unable to eat everything.
Photo 642: Dinner with Markus and Isabel at Villafranca del Bierzo.
1. Stay in Molinaseca for a couple of days to rest my leg (which by this time was badly swollen).
2. Take a bus to Sarria, where I could rest for a few days and then hobble the last 115 kilometres to Santiago This would also avoid the climb up to and over O Cebreiro which is reputed to be the most difficult climb on the Camino.
3. Walk the mostly flat terrain to the city of Ponferrada (named after the 11th century iron bridge built for pilgrims to cross the Rio Sil), where I could reassess the situation, including the possibility of getting medical attention.
At 6:30 am I left the albergue, walking slowly with a pronounced limp. Surprisingly, the pain lessened as I walked on and by the time I got to Ponferrada, I felt good enough to carry on since this was mostly a flat walking day. I walked by the imposing Templar Castle, but this was not a day for sight-seeing.
Photo 617: Ponferra Templar Castle.Later that day I met a Spaniard who, having noticing my limp, provided me with a topical anti-inflammatory called Voltaren – it helped and I bought some at the first open pharmacy, which was in Camponaraya. Later, I met a young lady from Shawinigan, Quebec who had just graduated from medical school at McGill. She had a look at my leg and confirmed that it was tendonitis.
The last six kilometres from Cacabelos to Villafranca del Bierzo were tough as it was mostly uphill and very hot. I know I could not have gone further that day and was frankly surprised at what I had accomplished, given the situation at the start of the day. I know that there were friends and family back home supporting and praying for me. Perhaps there had been divine intervention.
Later, Markus and I met at the municipal albergue and then walked to the central square where we met Isabel, from Germany. The menu del dia (menu of the day), included smoked ham, ribs with fries (both local delicacies), and ice cream for dessert. Despite my hunger I was unable to eat everything.
Photo 642: Dinner with Markus and Isabel at Villafranca del Bierzo.
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