Day 12, September 5: Tardajos to Castrojeriz (30 km; 6:00)
It was cold enough to see my breath when I left at 6:25 am and the sky was brilliant with stars. After a few kilometres I reached a rise and from the top I saw the seemingly endless flatness of the Meseta.
Photo 427: The meseta beckons. But not in a good way.
However, it really isn’t continuously flat; the terrain is periodically broken by deep valleys with a town at the bottom, and, of course, the inevitable steep climb on the other side. Hontanas, where I stopped for lunch was a typical example.
431: Approach to Montanas.
Midway between Hontanas and Castrojeriz are the spectacular ruins of the Convent of San Anton. The Camino, as well as the highway, go right through the ruined church.
Photo 436: Ruins of the convent of San Anton.
Soon after, the ruined fortress overlooking Castrojeriz came into view. I felt really good and would have liked to continue walking, but the need to resolve the issue of my dwindling financial resources was paramount.
Photo 442: Approaching Castrojeriz.
After a couple of hours of emailing back and forth with Lo, she managed to resolve the issue and shortly after, flush with cash I decided to celebrate by climbing to the fortress. It was worth the effort; I could see forever in every direction.
Photo 450: Looking eastward from the ruined fortress.
Photo 455: View of Castrojeriz, looking down from the fortress.
After dinner I shared a bottle of Rioja with several peregrinos; a young American man from Boston who had started in Toulouse, a young lady from Holland who was walking for only three days and was returning home the next day, and three German ladies who were having a great time doing 15-20 km per day with the intent to make it all the way to Santiago. They may still be walking!
I slept really well that night.
Photo 427: The meseta beckons. But not in a good way. However, it really isn’t continuously flat; the terrain is periodically broken by deep valleys with a town at the bottom, and, of course, the inevitable steep climb on the other side. Hontanas, where I stopped for lunch was a typical example.
431: Approach to Montanas.Midway between Hontanas and Castrojeriz are the spectacular ruins of the Convent of San Anton. The Camino, as well as the highway, go right through the ruined church.
Photo 436: Ruins of the convent of San Anton. Soon after, the ruined fortress overlooking Castrojeriz came into view. I felt really good and would have liked to continue walking, but the need to resolve the issue of my dwindling financial resources was paramount.
Photo 442: Approaching Castrojeriz.After a couple of hours of emailing back and forth with Lo, she managed to resolve the issue and shortly after, flush with cash I decided to celebrate by climbing to the fortress. It was worth the effort; I could see forever in every direction.
Photo 450: Looking eastward from the ruined fortress.
Photo 455: View of Castrojeriz, looking down from the fortress. After dinner I shared a bottle of Rioja with several peregrinos; a young American man from Boston who had started in Toulouse, a young lady from Holland who was walking for only three days and was returning home the next day, and three German ladies who were having a great time doing 15-20 km per day with the intent to make it all the way to Santiago. They may still be walking!
I slept really well that night.
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