Day 16, September 9: El Burgo Ranero to Leon (38 km; 7:30)
This was a long hot day, made no easier by the discovery that the only bar in Reliegos (after 13 kilometres of walking) was closed because it was Sunday – welcome to Spain! It was another six kilometres to Mansilla de las Mullas before I could have some coffee and croissants.
In this part of Spain there are underground bodegas. In some instances they are also used as homes.
Photo 513: The bodega "chimneys" are actually vents.
The last town before reaching Leon is Arcahueja. There was a modern pilgrim rest stop as you entered the town, oddly decorated with an almost-new pair of hiking boots which someone had carefully placed up in the rafters. I later learned they had been left by Mark from Ireland, whom I met quite by chance a few days later and who forever endeared himself to me with a gift of some packets of Ibuprofen powder that provided enough pain relief from the tendonitis in my left leg to continue the Camino.
Photo 516: You can see Mark's hiking boots above the "Agua Potable" sign.
The walk through the outskirts to Leon was similar to Burgos – uninteresting and dangerous, an unpleasant combination. At one point I was very nervously walking along the shoulder of a high speed 4-lane highway.
Photo 518: One of the dangerous highways along which I had to walk.
The old city is delightful, with large open squares and narrow, winding streets.
Photo 526: The building in the background with the spires was designed by GAUDI.
Photo 533: Main square by the cathedral.
Like most European cities there are numerous sculptures and statues. One, reminded me of a sculpture in downtown Red Deer.
Photo 535: A very contemporary sculpture.
Photo 537: All that's missing is a pigeon.
Photo 538: A more traditional pilgrim statue.
The albergue, a Benedictine Monastery, was a dump – dirty, noisy, poor facilities, with rows of creaky and uncomfortable bunk beds and as in many disreputable and tawdry inns there were uninvited guests – bedbugs. Overnighting in small towns and villages is far more pleasant. The only good thing about the albergue was that I met Markus from Germany. We would walk the remainder of the Camino together.
In this part of Spain there are underground bodegas. In some instances they are also used as homes.
Photo 513: The bodega "chimneys" are actually vents. The last town before reaching Leon is Arcahueja. There was a modern pilgrim rest stop as you entered the town, oddly decorated with an almost-new pair of hiking boots which someone had carefully placed up in the rafters. I later learned they had been left by Mark from Ireland, whom I met quite by chance a few days later and who forever endeared himself to me with a gift of some packets of Ibuprofen powder that provided enough pain relief from the tendonitis in my left leg to continue the Camino.
Photo 516: You can see Mark's hiking boots above the "Agua Potable" sign. The walk through the outskirts to Leon was similar to Burgos – uninteresting and dangerous, an unpleasant combination. At one point I was very nervously walking along the shoulder of a high speed 4-lane highway.
Photo 518: One of the dangerous highways along which I had to walk.The old city is delightful, with large open squares and narrow, winding streets.
Photo 526: The building in the background with the spires was designed by GAUDI. 
Photo 533: Main square by the cathedral.Like most European cities there are numerous sculptures and statues. One, reminded me of a sculpture in downtown Red Deer.
Photo 535: A very contemporary sculpture. 
Photo 537: All that's missing is a pigeon.
Photo 538: A more traditional pilgrim statue. The albergue, a Benedictine Monastery, was a dump – dirty, noisy, poor facilities, with rows of creaky and uncomfortable bunk beds and as in many disreputable and tawdry inns there were uninvited guests – bedbugs. Overnighting in small towns and villages is far more pleasant. The only good thing about the albergue was that I met Markus from Germany. We would walk the remainder of the Camino together.
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